
Urnes stave church. Photo: Levy Douglas
Well, Norway. What a lovely, relaxed, nice and wonderful country! Here travelling is very easy: no con artists trying to steal your luggage, no guides molesting you to find the next corner and to get paid for that, no taxi drivers with no meters, no policemen who are worse than robbers, no bullet holes in buses – in other words: Norway is relaxing in any way. Maybe not regarding money, because it is fairly expensive. But anyhow, I found one of the most exciting, beautiful and off the beaten track located UNESCO world heritage sites I have ever seen: the 1.000 year old stave church of Urnes.
If you do not have a private vehicle, it is pretty complicated to get there. From Flam, you have to take the bus to Sogndal, than change for the bus to Solvorn. Than take the ferry crossing Lustrafjord. Than walk up the hill. The church is a bit hidden behind some trees and is not visible from the ferry. But there is only one street going up the hill, so you cannot miss it.
It was a beatiful day when we went there. There were not many people around, and the church on the green hill, the mountains, still snowcapped, around it, fjord, sun, sea – above all the norwegian sky so blue – it was marvellous. That is what travelling is all about – to find wonderful places like this. To be enchanted by country and landscape and historic monuments beyond words. To be moved.
The church itself is a masterpiece of wood art and architectural concept, quite small, but it has a lot to tell. Set up by christianised vikings around 1000 years ago, it tells a lot about the early days of this religion, how people congregated and gathered under the roof of the church, sheltering the community.
The architects of this masterpiece of one building had a way to conserve the wood, we do not know anymore. The staves that give the building its name are made of redwood pines, and are not inhabited or damaged by insects, worms, whatsoever. Sealed by the makers of the church, for now almost 1000 years.
In the age of Baroque, banks and pulpit and gallery where added. For this purpose, some more pillars had to be added to support the original structure. They moved the original crucifix group of three figures from the center to the left of the central room. In the original days, the community congregated standing under the roof, which was painted black and only lit by torches, so that the people had the impression that there was no roof at all. Only God above them. A fine example of how architecture follows believe.
Scarvings of the church, where the original main entrance was, are splendid as well. They combine viking mythology and ornamentics with the new christian faith. The unknown master of these masterfully handicrafted ornamentics is not known. Try to catch the guided tour, the guide is fantastic.
Last bus, in summer, going back from Solvorn to Sogndal, is at 18:00h. Do not miss the last ferry from Urnes to Solvorn! Ferry times are announced at the ferry pier.
Link in Wikipedia to Urnes Stave Church (in English)
Link in Wikipedia Urnes Stabkirche (in Deutsch)